Weber Karl

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Biografie:
Quelle: Alpinismus 1973, Heft 2, Seite 36
Quelle: SAC Die Alpen 1973, Seite 279 f

Karl Weber 1903-1973
In order to grasp Karl Weber's intellectual achievements as a mountaineer and to evaluate the manifold influences he exercised in the field of unexplored mountains, it is indispensable to consult a world atlas. [n order to acquaint oneself with his personality and his humanity one would have to know the names of many persons who owe him lifelong gratitude for the many kindnesses he showed them. He was passionately attached to the high hills and he gathered his friends from amongst those who shared his likings.
The furtherance of Alpine explotation sprang from such ideals which he pursued with tenacity. For this purpose he founded in 1938 the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, an institution which made history. It was established at a time when the topography of the 14 highest mountains of the world over 8000 m was scarcely explored. Great massifs were waiting to be climbed, described and surveyed. To have been successfully involved in such a vast enterprise in the course of 35 years is Karl Weber's great achievement. He devoted much of his time, interest and energy to this aim and supported his ideals with considerable financial contributions. In order to achieve his ambitions he gathered round him many able helpers, who had his confidence and to whom he delegated his intentions.
The accomplishments of the Swiss Foundation of Alpine Research which were published in two reports in the years 1951 and 1972, stating facts, dates and deeds of the Foundation's records, represent at the same time Karl Weber's life's work. Although they do not touch on his career as a business man, nothing else could mirror more perfectly his personality, his passion for nature and his longings for distant lands.
The achievements of the Foundation are above all his personal achievements, for it is unthinkable that they could have matured without him. Without question he has made the greatest single Swiss contribution towards world-wide mountain exploration. In this compressed obituary the scope of the Foundation can only be mentioned in a few words. The institution was by no means limited to climbing activities. It cooperated with other organisations in many fields of physical science. Of the 10 expeditions which were organised by the Foundation, 2 were almost completely financed by Karl Weber.
They were the Garhwal expedition 1934, led by Andre Roch with first ascents of Dunagiri, Rataban and Ghori Parbat and the Swiss Mount Everest Expedition 1956, led by Albert Eggler, with the second and the third ascents of Everest, and the first ascent of Lhotse.
Amongst a dozen expeditions dealing with cartographic survey, an activity with which the Foundation was closely connected, the splendid Mount McKinley Map (scale 1 to 50,000) must be specially mentioned. Apart from many books which the Foundation sponsored, the brilliant series 'The Mountain World' gained world-wide acknowledgement. It appeared in 17 German, 10 English, 4 French and 2 Italian editions.
It must be considered a happy coincidence that 2 able collaborators happened to be Weber's friends, for they were responsible for 2 outstanding publications. One is the “Chronique Himalayenne” by Marcel Kurz, published in 1953, and a supplement printed in 1963. It is the best summary of the history of climbing in the Himalayas ever published and a masterly achievement. The other publication is 'A Century of Mountaineering' by Arnold Lunn, equally brilliant as a historical essay. It was Karl Weber's presentation gift to the Alpine Club on the occasion of its 100th Jubilee. For this and his many achievements as a mountaineer the Alpine Club made him an Honorary Member of which he was very proud.
Karl Weber was himself an accomplished climber, skier and shot. Though he climbed with guides, he needed little technical assistance. Amongst his important climbs may be mentioned, the ascent of the SW ridge of the Rosenlauistock, the S face of the Tannenspitze, the NE ridge and Rotbrettgrat of the Jungfrau, the Badile Nordkante, the N Face of the Wetterhorn and the Lauper route on the Mönch.
Though he was ailing in recent years he never gave up climbing. In 1971 he was one of the party when we climbed Mount Elbruz on skis, when he reached a point near the Col between its twin peaks. This was his last climb. Now, alas, remains only the golden memory of great achievements by a great friend of shining ranges.
Walter Amstutz
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 80, 1975, Seite 303-304


Geboren am:
25.02.1903
Gestorben am:
26.09.1973

Erste Route-Begehung