Vallepiana Ugi di

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Biografie:
Graf Ugo di Vallepiana, * in Florenz (Italien), später München, Mailand, + Mailand

Graf Ugo di Vallepiana wurde 1890 in Florenz geboren und studierte zunächst in Mailand und dann in München, wo er die herausragenden bayerischen Bergsteiger seiner Zeit kennenlernte. Seine anschließende alpine Karriere war sowohl brillant als auch nachhaltig. Die meisten Hauptgipfel der Alpen sowohl im Sommer als auch im Winter hatte er bestiegen. Graf Ugo di Vallepiana war öfters ein Seilgefährte von Paul Preuß. Ihm gelang zusammen mit Umberto Balestreri und Erminio Piantanida am 11.August 1924 die erste Besteigung der Punta Maria Luisa, ein namenloser Turm im Grenzkamm zwischen Val de Bagnes und Valpelline. Auch ein Aufstieg über den Nordostgrat des Grand Epicoune war eine Premiere.
Auf Grund seiner jüdische Abstammung veranlasste ihn, 1943 Zuflucht in der Schweiz zu suchen und musste aus dem Alpenverein austreten. 1949 wurde er wieder Mitglied des Clubs und legte eine Liste von über 90 verschiedenen Bergbesteigungen, alle ohne Führer, vor.
Er hegte lebenslangen Respekt und Zuneigung für britische Kletterer und schätzte sehr seine Mitgliedschaft im Alpine Club.
Viele Jahre lang war er Delegierter des CAI bei der UlAA.
Er hatte vier Bücher veröffentlicht, ein Skiführerhandbuch, „Le Dolomiti di Cortina d'Ampezzo“, und zwei Reiseführer.

1908 1.Beg.Aiguille de la Lex Blanche-Ostgrat,III,300 HM,3697m, (Montblancgebiet)
1911 2.Beg.Montblanc-Brouillardgrat,4807m, (Montblancgebiet)
1911 2.Best.Pic Luigi Amedeo vom Col Emile Rey,4469m, (Brouillardgrat Montblancgebiet)
1911 1. Beg.Aiguille de Trélatête-Ostgipfel-Nordostwand,IV,1300 HM,3893m, (Montblancgebiet)
1913 1.Beg.Schierihorn (Schinhorn)-Ostgrat,IV-,500 HM,3797m, (Berner Alpen)
1913 1.Beg.Punta Medaccio-Nordnordwestwand und Nordnordostgrat,2350m, (Lombardei)
1913 1.Beg.Aiguille de I‘M-Nordostwand,V,100 HM,2844m, (Montblancgebiet)
1913 1.Beg.Aiguille Noire de Peuterey-Südgrat-Pointe Gamba,3067m, (Montblancgebiet)
1913 1.Beg.u.Überschr.Pointe Innominata-Südostgrat,3731m, (Montblancgebiet)
1913 1.Beg.Punta Isabella-Südgrat,2782m, (Montblancgebiet)
1916 1.Beg.Tofana di Rozes-Südwand „Alpini-Kamin“,3225m, (Ampezzaner Dolomiten)
1924 1.Beg.Punta Maria Luisa (Petit Epicoune),3317m, (Walliser Alpen)
1924 1.Beg.Grand Epicoune,3346m, (Walliser Alpen)
1929 1.Beg.Ferro Centrale(Cima della Bondasca-Südgrat,3289m, (Bergell)
1932 1.Beg.Monte Conco-Nordostgrat,2908m, (Bergell)

Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu

geboren in Florenz (Italien)
gestorben in Mailand (Italien)

Ottolenghi di Vallepiana, Conte Ugo

Quelle: Rivista Mensile 1965, Volume 84, Seite 78
Quelle: Rivista Mensile 1979, Volumen 100, Seite 32

Count Ugo di Vallepiana 1890-1978)
Count Ugo di Vallepiana was born in Florence in 1890 and studied first in Milan and then in Munich where he met the outstanding Bavarian climbers of the day. His subsequent alpine career was both brilliant and sustained and summarized in his application of 1930 to join the
Alpine Club as "most of the chief summits of the Alps, both in summer and winter". He omitted to mention his several first ascents of outstanding alpine routes. (Col Strutt endorsed his application form 'This candidate has done all the 4,000 m peaks'.) He had published 4 books - a manual of skiing, Le Dolomiti di Cortina d'Ampeno, and 2 guide-books. An officer in the Alpini with a particularly distinguished record in the First World War, his loyalty to his country compelled him to resign his membership of the Club in 1940, but his Jewish ancestry led him to seek refuge in Switzerland in 1943 and in 1949 he applied for re-election to membership of the Club, giving a list of over 90 different Alpine ascents, all guideless, 'since my first election to the Club in 1930'. He had a life-long respect and affection for British climbers and held his membership of
the Alpine Club in high regard. When, some years ago, a dispute arose between certain of the European clubs concerning reciprocal rights in their respective alpine huts he initiated a unique and unilateral offer of privileges in huts of the CAI to the members of the Alpine Club
so that they should not suffer from the dispute-privileges which we still enjoy. For many years he was the outspoken and effective delegate of the CAI to the UlAA, bringing a rare and welcome commonsense to bear on the deliberations of its Executive and Annual Assemblies.
Frank Solari

Count Ugo di Vallepiana (1890-1978)
Count Ugo di Vallepiana was born in Florence in 1890 and studied first in Milan and then in Munich where he met the outstanding Bavarian climbers of the day. His subsequent alpine career was both brilliant and sustained and summarized in his application of 1930 to join the Alpine Club as 'most of the chief summits of the Alps, both in summer and winter'. He omitted to mention his several first ascents of outstanding alpine routes. (Col Strutt endorsed his application form 'This candidate has done all the 4,000 m peaks'.) He had published 4 books-a manual of skiing, Le Dolomiti di Cortina d'Ampezzo, and 2 guide-books. An officer in the Alpini with a particularly distinguished record in the First World War, his loyalty to his country compelled him to resign his membership of the Club in 1940, but his Jewish ancestry led him to seek refuge in Switzerland in 1943 and in 1949 he applied for reelection to membership of the Club, giving a list of over 90 different Alpine ascents, all guideless, 'since my first election to the Club in 1930'.
He had a life-long respect and affection for British climbers and held his membership of the Alpine Club in high regard. When, some years ago, a dispute arose between certain of the European clubs concerning reciprocal rights in their respective alpine huts he initiated a W. unique and unilateral offer of privileges in huts of the CAI to the members of the Alpine Club so that they should not suffer from the dispute-privileges which we still enjoy. For many years he was the outspoken and effective delegate of the CAI to the UlAA, bringing a rare and welcome commonsense to bear on the deliberations of its Executive and Annual Assemblies.
Frank Solari
Quelle: Alpine Journal Volume 84, 1979, Seite 270-271

Quelle: Alpinismus 1978, Jahrgang 16, Heft 4, Seite 80
Quelle: SAC Die Alpen 1978, Jahrgang 54, Seite 42



Geboren am:
26.12.1890
Gestorben am:
13.01.1978