Demjan Zoltan
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Biografie:
Teilnehmer an der tschechischen Khumbu Himal Expedition 1984 unter der Leitung von Jean Galfy. es gelingt die 3. Ersteigung des Lhotse Shar-
Quelle: Archiv Proksch (Österr. Alpenklub)
Lhotse Shar, Southwest Face. Our expedition, originally planned for 1983, managed to make a new route on Lhotse Shar, the southwest face. We were Dr. Leo? Chládek, Emil Fornay, Franti?ek Dostál, Peter Bo?ik, Zoltán Demján, Zdizlav Drlík, Róbert Gálfy, Karel Jake?, Ladislav Kyrc, Stanislav Marton, Jindrich Marti?, Igor Novák, Leopold Pálenícek, Josef Rakoncaj, Jaromír Stejskal, Miroslav ?míd, Marian Zatko and I as leader. With some difficulty, we transported our gear by truck from Czechoslovakia to Nepal as far as the village of Jiri, where porter transport began. Because the Indian and Bulgarian expeditions to Everest had preceded us, only very few capable porters remained available to us. After 13 days of march, we arrived at Base Camp at 5250 meters, in the same place as that of the Yugoslavs in 1981. Our route led through the middle of Lhotse Shar?s southwest face. The lower part up to 6150 meters was an alternating slate-and-granite rock buttress, some of it very difficult, the middle up to 7000 meters included an impressive 60° ice ridge and the upper part to the summit was of mixed rock and snow. From 7150 to 7500 meters we followed a 50° snow ramp which ended in a difficult rock barrier. Camp V was on a huge ice ridge. We then traversed left onto the face, some of 60°, and climbed to Camp VI. We regained the ridge higher by another ramp. The weather was very unfavorable and it snowed and was windy on all but four or five days. We placed six camps: Camps I, II, III, IV, V and VI at 5850, 6250, 6800, 7150, 7500 and 7900 meters respectively. The whole route was secured by 5000 meters of fixed rope. The lower part was avalanche-free but in the middle part the danger of avalanches was great. The daily snowfalls made the climb more difficult and destroyed some camps. On May 20 four climbers set out and Demján reached the summit (8400 meters, 27,560 feet), the other three turning back at 8200 meters. On May 21 Bo?ik, Rakoncaj and Stejskal reached the summit.
Ivan Gálfy, Horská Slu?ba, Starý Smokovec, Czechoslovakia
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1985
Mount Everest, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was organized by the Slovak Geographical Society of the Slovak Academy of Sciences with two parallel programs: scientific research and mountaineering. The research concerned the problems of nature in the National Park of Sagarmatha from ecological aspects. The Slovak Geographical Society was the first in the world to undertake a project inspired by the UIAA Kathmandu Declaration of 1982. The climbing program was to ascend Everest by the southern buttress, the Polish route. (An earlier plan to repeat the Soviet route of 1982 was declined because of many objective reasons.) Snow conditions allowed us to ascend from Camps III to V closer to the buttress itself. Base Camp was reached on September 6. We placed Camps I, II, III, IV and V at 6050, 6400, 7300, 8050 and 8300 meters on September 9, 12, 22, October 2 and 14 respectively. We used no supplementary oxygen. On October 15 the summit was reached by Zoltán Demján, Jozef Psotka and Sherpa Ang Rita. They descended the classic South Col route. Demján and Ang Rita reached Camp II that night but Psotka lagged behind and apparently fell on the Lhotse Face. His body was found at the foot of the face. We had 25 members, including the scientists. Those who worked in the Base Camp area and higher were climbing leader, Michal Orolí, Ivan Fiala, Psotka, Demján, J. Porvazník, L. Záhoranskÿ, J. Just, M. ?ajnoha, R. Mock, V. Launer, V. Petrik, M. Neuman, Z. Brabec, J. Or?ula, V. Dude?, Dr. M. ?imonic, Dr. M. Skladaný, M. Matis, M. Koncok and me as leader.
Franti?ek Kele, Slovak Geographical Society
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1985
Dhaulagiri, West Face. Our aim was to make the first ascent of the giant, 14,750-foot-high, west face of Dhaulagiri. We were 15 Czechoslovak climbers and the Italian Gian Luigi Visintin. We used no oxygen equipment and had no high-altitude porters. We got to Base Camp at 3700 meters on August 27. After placing Camp I at 4600 meters on September 3, we could not climb for eight days because of rain and snow. Camp II was established on October 16 at 5600 meters on the prominent rock buttress in the center of the face. The most difficult part lay between Camps II and III, rock of UIAA difficulty IV and ice of 80°. Camp III was placed at 6300 meters on September 22. Camp IV was made on October 1 at 6700 meters above séracs on snow. Camp V at 7600 meters was placed on the northwest ridge, where our route met the 1982 Japanese route on the Pear on the north face. Although Camp V was fully established on October 6, we had to descend four times from there because of bad weather. Finally Jan ?imon, Karel Jake? and Jaromír Stejskal got to Camp V under good conditions. Since it was only noon, they continued on and bivouacked in a snow cave at 7900 meters. On October 23 Simon got to the top at 10:30 and the other two at eleven A.M. Tragically ?imon fell to his death during the descent.
Jiri Novák, Czechoslovakia
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1985
Dhaulagiri, Complete Southwest Buttress. Our international expedition hoped to make the first complete ascent alpine-style of the southwest buttress of Dhaulagiri, attempted by French in 1978 and 1980 up to 7500 meters and by Czechoslovaks in 1985 up to 7250 meters. The buttress itself is 2200 meters high and is topped by snow slopes 900 meters high. The French reported great difficulties in three sections: a succession of rock towers from 5000 to 6000 meters, a narrow snow ridge with steps up to 60° and enormous rock-and-ice towers from 6000 to 6800 meters, and a vertical and partially overhanging step from 6800 to 7300 meters. A second group of the members wanted to repeat the Japanese route on the south face. The expedition members were from three countries: Igor Novák and I, co-leaders, Dr. Tomá? Skricka, and Zoltán Dem- ján, Czechoslovaks, Marco Fogliatti and Sergio Antoniazzi, Italians, Yuri Moiseev and Kazbek Valiev, Soviets. Base Camp was established at 3600 meters on September 16. Immediately bad weather with heavy snowfall followed. This complicated matters since the expedition was planned to last only until October 10 or 12. When the weather cleared on September 25, it became possible to move up to the southwest col at 5100 meters on the 26th. It was obvious that the Japanese route was out of the question for that group, which lacked acclimatization. However, the three southwest-buttress climbers, Demján, Moiseev and Valiev, had shortly before climbed in the Tien Shan and were acclimatized. They set out from the southwest col on September 29, alpine-style, with 15-kilogram packs. They bivouacked at 5650, 6100, 6500, 6700, 6900, again 6900, 7200, 7350 meters. They left their snow cave on October 6, the eleventh day above Base Camp, and climbed to the summit, despite a storm that began at 11:15 A.M., and returned that same night to that highest bivouac. The descent followed the ascent route, mostly rappelling, with bivouacs at 6900, 6500, 6100 and 5100 meters. They were back in Base Camp on October 10, having been climbing for 16 days. The most difficult part (UIAA VI, A2, 90°) was principally between 6750 and 7200 meters.
JIRí NovÁk, Ceskoslovensky Horolezecky Svaz
Quelle: American Alpine Journal 1989