Lochmatter Gabriel
(Bearbeiten)
Biografie:
Lochmatter Gabriel, + St. Nikolaus (Schweiz),Sohn von Lochmatter Jean-Marie (Josef Marie)
1903 1.Beg.Gletschhorn-Südgrat,IV+,255 HM,3305m,(Urner Alpen)
1.Beg.Weißhorn-Südwand "Diagonale",4505m, (Walliser Alpen)
1905 1.Beg.Weißhorn-Südostflanke "Variante",4505m, (Weisshorngruppe - Walliser Alpen)
Gerd Schauer, Isny im Allgäu
gestorben in St. Nikolaus (Schweiz)
Quelle: SAC Die Alpen 1958, Seite 45
Gabriel Lochmatter
The death has occurred of Gabriel Lochmatter of St. Niklaus at the age of seventy-seven, the youngest but one, and the last but one, of the famous guiding brotherhood.
The eldest, Alexander, was killed with his father on the Dent Blanche; Rudolf, a superb mountaineer, lost his hand in a mine explosion and died early; Josef, all-round athlete, died of an accident when called up in the First World War; the incomparable Franz was killed on the Weisshorn; Rafael, burly, blunt, and loyal-hearted, alone survives.
Gabriel, the only fair-haired brother and of almost angelic good looks, became an accomplished guide. A powerful and graceful climber, he was taken as second by his famous elder brothers; and with them, often put on to lead, made a remarkable number of first ascents, notably in Captain Ryan's long seasons.
Modest, with a cool head, a cautious judgment and excellent manners, he was a favourite with responsible British mountaineers, and but for ill health and the outbreak of war in his career, he might have been even better known.
I remember best a brilliant lead of his up the final precipice on a new ascent on the South-west face of the Dom when, with a sustained quiet chuckle, he pulled himself two or three times up the last little overhang in order to make quite certain we should arrive exactly on the summit.
On another occasion, on reaching the Italian hut on the Matterhorn in a blizzard, report came down of parties in difficulties in the snowstorm above us. Gabriel set off cheerfully, and unroped, up the peak again, piloting them down before night. One pair had fallen off the rope ladder and escaped miraculously through the second man falling through the spokes and jamming, with his companion in suspension below him; a difficult problem of extrication in a blizzard.
In later years he supported a long family and was much incapacitated by illness; years endured with a characteristic patience and humour.
G. Winthrop Young
Quelle: Alpine Journal Vol. 63. Nr. 29, 1958, Seite 126-127
Geboren am:
1881
Gestorben am:
1958